Price: $75.00 plus shipping
Pictured above are the components included in the power steering bracket kit for 230 flathead engines. The 3 short bolts are 10mm X 25mm for attaching the Ford PS pump to the bracket. The 3 long 7/16" bolts are 1/2" longer than the original head bolts and are used to fasten the bracket to the top of the engine (5/8" groove pulley is included).
General information:
There are several different versions of this Ford PS pump used from 78-89 on F series trucks and Bronco. It was also used on 83-89 Rangers and most of the Ford passenger cars from these years. Since a wrecking yard will want $50 for a used one and you can get them remanufactured for around $67 (core charge included) it is not worth taking a chance on a used one unless you already have it. Federated part# 20-6240
These pumps use a metric O-ring line seal at the pump instead of inverted flair. If for some reason you want to use flares on both ends of the pressure line, you can get an adapter fitting from us or Weatherhead (part# 1439) that will fit a number 6 JIC 37 deg flair.
You canÕt use the original pulley that was installed on the pump by Ford. The offset is incorrect and it has a 1/2" groove instead of a 5/8" one.
The pulley is a press fit onto the pump shaft, packaged with your remaned pump should be a pulley installer (3" X 3/8" NC bolt and a washer and nut). DO NOT install the pulley by hammering or pressing, this will ruin the pump.
If you need to remove the pulley for any reason you will need to use a split bearing removal plate. If you try to use a 3 jaw puller you will bend the rim of the pulley.
Be sure to apply permatex #2 to the first few threads of any bolts you remove and replace. Most of them go into the water jacket and this will prevent them from leaking.
Because of the many different types of generators and alternator conversions used on these trucks we canÕt tell you exactly how to prevent interference between the alt/gen and the pump bracket. We can give you some examples and the procedure that I use with alternator systems. If you have one of the old generators now is a good time to donate it to a fisherman (they make great boat anchors) and install a one wire alternator (they come in both 12 and 24 volts for about $60).
Step 1: Drain the water from your cooling system (the bolts you are about to remove go into the water jacket and will spray coolant all over when they are pulled.
Step 2: Remove the fan and the three head bolts around the upper water outlet as shown below.
Step 3: Set the bracket in place and check to see if the alternator/generator adjustment arm interferes with it. There are a couple of ways to deal with this problem if you have it. The easiest solution is to flip the arm over so that the joggle is forward instead of backward. If it needs to be bent this can be done in a hydraulic press as shown on the next page (note the 3/8" keystock that has been placed in the adjustment slot to keep it from deforming.
On the next page is the end result that is needed. The alt/gen has been rotated outboard to clear the bottom of the PS bracket and the adjuster arm is now forward of the bracket face instead of under it as in the original installation. Also notice that an extra hole has been provided in the face of the bracket just above the adjuster as an alternate attachment point for it. You can shorten it as needed with a hacksaw and drill a new hole for the pivot bolt to go through.
Step 4: Install the three new head bolts and snug them down to the point where you can just wiggle the bracket from side to side. Attach the pump to the bracket using the three 10mm bolts as shown below.
Step 5: Install the pulley using the 3/8" bolt and nut provided with your remaned pump. Screw the nut on the bolt as far as it will go, place the pulley on the end of the shaft (the shaft should be oiled), then screw the bolt into the hole in the end of the shaft as deep as it will go. Now hold the pulley with one hand while you tighten the nut with the other, this will press the pulley onto the shaft. Keep turning until the shaft end hits the nut and washer. This final step is pictured n below.
Step 6: Now remove the installer bolt and nut and drop a 3/4" 12 point socket onto it as shown on the next page. This will allow the shaft to protrude into the socket and push the pulley to it's final position.
Step 7: Place a straight edge across the faces of the fan and pump pulleys and move the pump bracket around on its 3 mount bolts until their surfaces are parallel to each other, then tighten the 3 head bolts to the torque listed in your manual. Push the pulley on so that the grooves in the fan and pump pulleys are aligned as shown below.
Below are a couple of close-ups of the final position of the shaft and pulley hub. With the pump shaft pushed in as far as it would go the gap between the pulley hub and the pump housing on an M37 installation measured .080" (it will be approx. to 1/4" for Power Wagons). It may vary from truck to truck so be careful not to press the pulley on too far.
Step 8: If you need a spacer on the adjuster bolt between the alternator ear and the adjustment arm (we needed a 1/2" one) try a drill stop or shaft collar the same size as the bolt. They are cheap and easily found at most hardware stores. All that's left to do is determine the correct size vee-belt (industrial 5/8" belts, by the way, are less expensive than the automotive variety, which are $20 at NAPA). A 60" belt on the M37 or a 56" belt on the PW is a good place to start, if you don't run it you can exchange it at the parts store for a slightly smaller or larger one as the case may be.
Step 9: Install your hoses from the pump to the steering box and fill up the pump with power steering fluid (not ATF). Power steering fluid is clear not red and is formulated for the higher temperatures and pressures encountered in PS applications.