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1961-1971 Sweptline D100 Front Disc Brake Manual

 

 

 

 

 

Not currently being produced

 

This disc brake conversion kit fits 1957 to 1971 Dodge D100 trucks with 15" 5 lug x 4.5" rims.

It includes the following components:

2 ea. 1/4" plate steel caliper brackets.

These bolt directly to the knuckle with no modification or welding required.

2 ea. Outer spindle sleeves.

For installation on the spindles to allow the use of the Dakota outer hub bearings.

2 ea. 1987 11-3/8" Dodge Dakota hub/rotor assemblies.

2 ea. brake hoses and fittings.

For hooking calipers to metal brake lines.

4 ea. Bearing cones for hubs.

2 ea. hub seals.

Hardware for completing installation.

You will need to purchase the following locally:

2 ea. 76 -79 Dodge Aspen (station wagon) calipers (About $32 each).

ALC Part# 40-4103 and 40-4104     Autoline part# L4103 and L4104

2 ea. Caliper slider mounts from the following cars (about $10 each from junk yard ):

If you are installing on a 57-60 truck any of the following types of sliders will work.

If you are installing on a 61-71 truck you will need to use the smaller Chrysler 5 th Avenue type.

1976-1979 Aspen

1986 Chrysler 5th Avenue

1977-1979 Diplomat

1979-1981 Dodge cars

1977-1979 LeBaron

1976-1979 Plymouth Volare

General information:

The Dodge Dakota rotor/hub assembly is a perfect replacement for the original hub and drum on these trucks, except for the fact that the Dakota uses metric bearings which are larger than the original ones. The solution we have devised for this is to install metal sleeve on the outer journal of your existing spindles to increase their diameter. We then machine the Dakota hubs to take the original 57-71 bearing and seal.

 

    you will need to go to a wrecking yard and find a pair of caliper sliders for the Aspen calipers. Fortunately most of the sliders used on 1976-1986 Dodge passenger cars were of this type. Do not pay more than $20 a pair for these as unlike rotors and calipers they never wear out and no one ever buys them (around here I pay $5-7 each for them when I remove them myself).

   

Tire tread width and stopping power:

    1957-1968 trucks usually came with 5" wide rims. This width tire was adequate for transferring the relatively poor stopping power of the drum brakes to the road. If they are used with disc brakes these narrow tires can lock up and skid during rapid stops especially when the roads are wet or icy. This can cause loss of control particularly on short bed trucks with little weight on the rear axle. If your 5" tires are still good you can use them but make sure you upgrade to more modern 6.5" or larger rims and tires when they need replacing.

Proportioning valves:

     A proportioning valve must be used in the rear brake line if 4 wheel disc brakes are installed. One may not be needed if you have front discs with rear drums as the rear drums will not have enough stopping power to lock up. This is something that you will need to determine for your particular truck.

 

Rims that can be used with disc brakes:

       Between 1957 and 1971 there were several different rim styles that were made for these trucks, some are useable with disc brakes and some are not. Fortunately

rims are cheap and easy to find in 15" 5 lug X 4.5". The following are some examples of rims that will and will not work.

    

Pictured below is an early 15" X 5" wide rim these were used from 1957-1969 and are of two types. The one pictured below can be used with disc brakes, notice that the drop center portion goes straight from the bead area to the center web. This allows clearance for the caliper. You will need to use the 1/4" wheel spacer with this rim.

The rim pictured below is identical to the one above in every way except that the side of the drop center area has a curve in it before dropping straight down to the web. This one can't be used with discs as the caliper will hit the rim at the curve.

The photo below is of a more modern rim designed for use with disc brakes that measures 15" X 6.5" wide. Notice that the inside drops straight down from the bead area to the center web. This gives maximum clearance between the caliper and the inside of the rim.

Care should be taken when selecting this type of rim for a '57-'60 trucks as the tire might rub on the inside of the   fender if the spring is compressed all the way. It will not be necessary to use the 1/4" thick wheel spacers with rims of this type rim.

 

1957-1971 D100/D200 front Disc brake installation instructions.

•  Remove th old hubs, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates from the spindles. You should check for play in the spindle kingpin bushings by trying to move the end of the spindle up and down. If you detect more than a few thousands movement the king pins and their bushings should be replaced and line reamed.

Before installing the outer sleeve screw the nut on to were it just clears the inner edge of the cotter pin hole. Then hold the sleeve up to the spindle and make sure that when its inner end hits the tapered part of the spindle it clears the inside of the nut. If on yours it doesn't then you will need to grind or turn enough off the inner end so that it does.

2. Install the outer bearing sleeves by tapping them into place using a 4" length of 3/4" water pipe with a cap on one end until the sleeve is about 1/4" away from seating against the shoulder. Apply oil to the inside of the sleeve to make this easier. Check to make sure that the sleeve has not cocked to one side after each hit. This should be a .000" to .002" press fit if your spindle measures .748" and not require a lot of force. If If you warm the sleeve with a propane soldering torch you should be able to push the sleeve on by hand rather than using a hammer. Do not overheat (red hot) as this might warp the sleeve.

4. Check the outer lip of the sleeve to make sure that there are no burs to keep the bearing cone from going on. If you have dial or digital calipers you can check the size of the sleeve O.D. and compare it to the I.D. of the bearing cone. The sleeve OD should be .001-.002" smaller. Use the 1" wide emery cloth to reduce the size of the sleeve until the bearing cone just slips on with a light push fit. BE CAREFUL you will only be removing .002" at the most, this is 1/2 the thickness of a hair!

    You should hang a 12" strip of the emery cloth over the sleeve as shown below and alternately pull down on the right and then left ends of the strip. Six moderate strokes should be enough for each time! Then reverse the direction of the strip ends so that they are pointing up and do the bottom side of the sleeve. Hold the ends of the strip by the inside corners and try to keep the strip flat against the sleeve surface.

    Next do the two sides, then wipe the sleeve and bearing clean and check the fit of the bearing cone or use calipers if you have them. If the bearing still will not slide onto the sleeve repeat the sanding operation again using a fresh piece of emery cloth.

7. When the bearing cones fit properly install the inner cones on the spindle then test fit the rotor/hubs by installing them with the outer bearing. Check two things:

•  That the heads of the lower 9/16" spindle bolts and the rotor have at least .030" clearance between them and:

•  That the outer bearing sleeve does not stick out beyond the outer bearing. If it does, remove the rotor and tap the sleeve on further until the spindle nut does not contact it when you tighten it down when the rotor and bearings are installed.

 

Caliper slider assembly modification:

8. There are a couple of types of caliper sliders pictured below. The right one is from a Dodge Aspen, the left one is from a Chrysler 5th avenue. Either type will work for the 57-60 trucks but you will need to use the smaller 5 th Avenue type for the 61-71 trucks.

9. You will need to trim .200" off the inner edge of the slider as shown below. The lower one has a black line indicating where the cut should be made. The upper one has already been trimmed.

 

 

    If you have access to a band saw the trimming can be done as shown below. Or a hack saw or grinder can be used. Notice that a C-clamp is used to stabilize the slider and keep it from tipping.

         There are a couple of additional steps that are needed to install the front disc brakes in the later '61-'71 trucks. You will have to use one of the smaller type Chrysler 5th Avenue slider units instead of the larger Aspen ones. The casting numbers are visible in the instruction manual photos and can be compared to the ones on the sliders in the wrecking yard to make sure that they are the correct ones.

         Also be aware that some of the Chrysler cars used sliders that look the same but have a different distance from the bolt holes to the caliper mount location and will put the caliper out 1/2" beyond the edge of the rotor.

1. Included in this package is an additional long 9/16" bolt for use on the drivers side in place of the shorter one that was originally provided as well as a smaller lower caliper keeper.

2. You will need to grind an approximately 1/8" deep x 3/8" wide groove in the lower side of the sliders and chamfer the corner below the slider notch 45 deg. as shown below so that they will clear the tie rod arm.

   

Below is a closeup of the slider installed so that you can see its relationship with the tierod arm.

   

3. The lower corner of the caliper will need to be ground down flush as shown below. The caliper on the left has had the protrusion ground off.   Install the caliper and it will be very apparent where the metal must be remover.

  Then chamfered 45 deg as shown here on the right so that it will clear the tierod end when it moves inward due to pad wear. Remember that the whole caliper will move inward 1/4" as the pads wear.

4. The lower caliper keepers need to be replaced with the new ones provided and installed as shown below.

   

10. Install the backing plate on the spindle using the two 3/8"NF x 1-1/4" bolts at the top and the two 9/16"NF x 2-1/2" and 3" bolts (with machined heads) at the bottom.

     If your steering box is forward of the axle (1957-1960 trucks) you will install the plates with the calipers forward, if the steering box is aft of the axle (1961-1971 trucks) you will install the backing plates with the caliper aft. See photo below.

11. Insert the caliper slider bolts into the backing plate from the spindle side and put the slider spacer with the flat edge on the top bolt and the round one on the bottom bolt. You will also need to change the straight king pin grease fittings to a 45 or 90 degree ones.

12. Assemble the slider to the backing plate using the 1/2"NF lock nuts provided.

13. Install your inner hub bearing after packing it with high temp disc brake grease and tap the seal into place on top of it making sure that the lips of the seal face in toward the bearing.

     Turn the hub over and pack the inside with grease and install it on the spindle (a little oil on the ID of the inner bearing cone and seal will help if it is a tight fit).

14.   Remember that it will be more difficult to get the inner bearing to slip onto the spindle when it is inside the hub because it is able to shift around and become misaligned. If the bearing cone would slip onto the spindle by itself then it will eventually go on now.

15. Once the hub is on, install the outer bearing and nut. There will probably not be enough room for the special washer. The nut should be tightened until all play is removed from the bearings and then loosened 1/6 of a turn, then   install the cotter pin. If it seems like the nut has not gone on far enough to install the cotter pin you probably did not press the inner sleeve on far enough. If you are sure the inner sleeve is properly installed and if only a few thousands need to be gained, you can sand down the face of the nut until the cotter pin will go in its hole.

     Check the clearance between the heads of the 9/16" bolts and the rotor to make sure that they are not touching. You should have at least .030" between them.

16. Once the hub is installed you can install the caliper making sure that the bleeder nipple is up. In the photo below the upper caliper keeper has been installed so you can see how its pieces fit together.

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7. Next hook up the brake hoses as shown below using the banjo bolts provided. Turn the steering lock to lock and make   sure that the hose does not rub against anything.

17. Attach the other ends of the hoses to the frame using the nuts from the original hoses and screw the metal brake lines into them.

 

 

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