Price: $60.00 plus shipping
Pictured above are the components included in the power steering bracket kit for 230 flathead engines. The 3 short bolts are 10mm X 25mm for attaching the Ford PS pump to the bracket. The 3 long 7/16" bolts are 1/2" longer than the original head bolts and are used to fasten the bracket to the top of the engine.
General information:
There are several different versions of this Ford PS pump used from 78-89 on F series trucks and Bronco. It was also used on 83-89 Rangers and most of the Ford passenger cars from these years. Since a wrecking yard will want $50 for a used one and you can get them remanufactured for around $67 (core charge included) it is not worth taking a chance on a used one unless you already have it. Federated part# 20-6240
These pumps use a metric O-ring line seal at the pump instead of inverted flair. If for some reason you want to use flares on both ends of the pressure line, you can get an adapter fitting from us or Weatherhead (part# 1439) that will fit a number 6 JIC 37 deg flair.
You can't use the original pulley that was installed on the pump by Ford. The offset is incorrect and it has a 1/2" groove instead of a 5/8" one.
You will need to get a Maska 1B50 SDS pulley and a Maska SDS 13/16 hub locally. You can use this pulley or an equivelent in another brand. The pulley and its hub are assembled and slipped onto the pump shaft then the 3 pulley hub bolts are tightened.
The pulley can be removed by removing the 3 hub bolts and threading them into the three threaded holes in the pulley hub flange.
Be sure to apply permatex #2 to the first few threads of any bolts you remove and replace. Most of them go into the water jacket and this will prevent them from leaking.
Because of the many different types of generators and alternator conversions used on these trucks we can't tell you exactly how to prevent interference between the alt/gen and the pump bracket. We can give you some examples and the procedure that I use with alternator systems. If you have one of the old generators now is a good time to donate it to a fisherman (they make great boat anchors) and install a one wire alternator (they come in both 12 and 24 volts for about $60).
Step 1: Drain the water from your cooling system (the bolts you are about to remove go into the water jacket and will spray coolant all over when they are pulled.
Step 2: Remove the fan and the three head bolts around the upper water outlet as shown below.
Step 3: Set the bracket in place and check to see if the alternator/generator adjustment arm interferes with it. There are a couple of ways to deal with this problem if you have it. The easiest solution is to flip the arm over so that the joggle is forward instead of backward. If it needs to be bent this can be done in a hydraulic press as shown on the next page (note the 3/8" keystock that has been placed in the adjustment slot to keep it from deforming.
On the next page is the end result that is needed. The alt/gen has been rotated outboard to clear the bottom of the PS bracket and the adjuster arm is now forward of the bracket face instead of under it as in the original installation. Also notice that an extra hole has been provided in the face of the bracket just above the adjuster as an alternate attachment point for it. You can shorten it as needed with a hacksaw and drill a new hole for the pivot bolt to go through.
Step 4: Install the three new head bolts and snug them down to the point where you can just wiggle the bracket from side to side. Attach the pump to the bracket using the three 10mm bolts as shown below.
Step 5: Install the Maska pulley and hub that you aquired locally.
Step 6: Place a straight edge across the faces of the fan and pump pulleys and move the pump bracket around on its 3 mount bolts until their surfaces are parallel to each other, then tighten the 3 head bolts to the torque listed in your manual. Adjust the pulley in or out so that the grooves in the fan and pump pulleys are aligned as shown below.
Step 7: If you need a spacer on the adjuster bolt between the alternator ear and the adjustment arm (we needed a 1/2" one) try a drill stop or shaft collar the same size as the bolt. They are cheap and easily found at most hardware stores. All that's left to do is determine the correct size vee-belt (industrial 5/8" belts, by the way, are less expensive than the automotive variety, which are $20 at NAPA). A 60" belt on the M37 or a 56" belt on the PW is a good place to start, if you don't run it you can exchange it at the parts store for a slightly smaller or larger one as the case may be.
Step 8: Install your hoses from the pump to the steering box and fill up the pump with power steering fluid (not ATF). Power steering fluid is clear not red and is formulated for the higher temperatures and pressures encountered in PS applications.